Coastal Systems and Landscapes Assessment 1 Revision

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  • Coastal Systems & Landscapes
    • Coastal Zones
      • Backshore: The area between the HWM and the landward limit of marine activity.
      • Foreshore: Area between HWM and LWM. It is the most important zone for marine activity in times not affected by storm activity.
      • Inshore: Beyond point where waves cease to impact the seabed. Activity is limited to deposition of sediment
      • Nearshore: area extending seaward from HWM to area where waves begin to break
        • Swash Zone: Area where turbulent layer of water washes up the beach following the breaking of a wave
        • Surf Zone:  Area between wave breaking point, waves move up the beach as swash in swash zone
        • Breaker Zone: Area where waves approaching the coastline begin to break. Usually where the water depth is 5-10m
    • Coasts as natural systems
      • Inputs: Waves, Wind, Tides, Sea Currents, Sediment, Geology of the coastline, Sea level change
        • Components: Erosional landforms & landscapes (Erosional processes), Depositional landforms & landscapes (Wind + water transportation)
          • Outputs: Dissipation of wave energy, Accumulation of sediment above tidal limit, Sediment removed beyond local sediment cells.
      • Sources of Energy
        • Wind
          • Vital input, primary energy source
          • Important agent of transportation & erosion
          • Variation in strength & direction affects wave energy
          • High speeds, uninterrupted,higher wave energy
          • Prevailing winds control direction of waves
          • Fetch = distance the wind blows over open water without interruption
            • Length of fetch = magnitude & energy of waves reaching coastline
          • Frictional drag plays vital role in wave formation
          • Agent of erosion
    • Currents
    • Waves
      • Oscillatory Wave: A wave in open sea with full circular motion of particles
      • Translatory Wave: a breaking wave in which the circular motion of particles is broken by friction
      • Crest - highest point of the wave
      • Trough - lowest point of the wave
      • Wave height - distance from trough to crest
      • Wavelength - distance between crests
      • Frequency - Time taken for one wave to travel the distance of one wavelength (or between two crests) passing a fixed point
    • Littoral Drift
      • Most waves do not approach "head-on", instead at an angle
        • Generates a flow of water running parallel to the shoreline
          • Not only moves water along surf zone, also transports sediment parallel to shoreline
    • Sediment & Sediment Cells
      • Sediment: Any material (usually broken down by erosion or weathering) transported by wind, water, ice and/or gravity
      • Sources of Sediment
        • Rivers: The majority of coastal sediment originates from rivers, especially in high rainfall areas where rivers are most active
          • Cliff Erosion: An important local sediment source, especially in areas with soft/unconsolidated rock
            • Long Shore Drift: Sediment is transported from the input to the output (one end of the coastline to the other, basically)
              • Wind: In glacial or desert areas, wind blown sand can be deposited in coastal areas
        • Glaciers: Ice shelf calving causes ice to fall into the sea
          • Offshore Sources: e.g. tides & currents, storm surges, tsunamis and hurricanes
      • If more sediment is removed than added, the coastline will RECEED
        • More material is ADDED: net accretion, surplus of sediment, shoreline builds towards sea
          • Processes of erosion control level of deficit
            • More material is REMOVED: net loss, deficit of sediment, shoreline retreats landward
        • More material is REMOVED: net loss, deficit of sediment, shoreline retreats landward
      • Sediment Budget: Like a bank account, defined as the balance between sediment added and removed
        • Can be used to identify sources of sediment
          • Calculating budget requires identification of all sources & sinks and estimation of sediment + and - per year
            • Calculation is extremely difficult, requires complex calculations, estimations & models
      • Sediment Cells
        • 11 cells around the coast of England
          • Divided by natural features such as headlands
          • Movement of sediment more or less contained within a cell
          • Each cell can be divided into smaller sub-cells
    • Sub-Aerial Processes
      • Weathering
        • Slowly breaks down rock
          • Occurs in-situ
        • Biological
        • Chemical
          • Most likely to occur in hot, wetter climates
            • Optimum condutions: 45°+ f, 50+ in. of rain (mean annual)
        • Physical
      • Mass Movement
        • 7 types
          • Landslides
            • Block of rock moving rapidly downhill
              • Side plane is often a bedding plane roughly parallel to ground
              • Frequently triggered by earthquakes and heavy rain
              • Slip surface is lubricated, friction reduced
              • 1993 - 60m of cliff slid onto beach near Scarborough (HOLBECK)
          • Rockfalls
          • Mudflows
            • Involves earth & mud flowing downhill, usually over weak bedrock
            • Often after heavy rainfall
            • Water trapped in rock
              • Increases pressure, particles forced apart, causes slope failure
          • Rotational Slip
          • Soil Creep
          • Solifluction
          • Run-Off
    • Geomorphological Processes
      • Lithology
        • Important in determining erosion rates
          • Tough & resistant rock erodes more slowly than soft rock
        • UK's fastest erosion rates: Holderness Coast, Lincolnshire
          • Unconsolidated glacial till deposits were eroded by 120m in past century
      • Geoological Structure
        • Cracks, joints, bedding plains & faults create weakness
        • Variationsin rock type can lead to headland + bay formation
          • Formation is the result of subsequent differential erosion
      • Waves
        • Often break at the coastline with considerable energy
        • Rate + type affects erosion
        • Most erosion happens during winter storms with destructive waves
  • Currents
    • Affect land temperature, cold currents = cold & dry winds, often result in deserts
    • Causes
      • Prevailing Winds
      • Sea Floor Features
      • Heat & Temperature
        • Provides energy, causes molecules to expand
        • Most heat found at the equator
          • South of the equator currents circle ANTI CLOCKWISE
          • North of the equator currents circle CLOCKWISE
      • Cold water more dense, sinks down
    • The permanent or seasonal movement of surface water in seas or oceans
    • Currents
    • Rip Currents:  The area between two circulating currents
      • Strong currents moving away from shoreline
        • develop when seawater is piled up along the coastline by incoming waves
          • May initially run parallel to the coastline before flowing into breaker zone, maybe at headland or where shoreline is changing direction
            • Can be extremely hazardous to swimmers & small boats

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