Waves, wave anatomy, wave types From Chapter 1 of the Yellow A level OCR Geography book. 0.0 / 5 ? GeographyCoastal environmentsA2/A-levelOCR Created by: alex123Created on: 27-09-19 16:48 Interval between wave crests in seconds known as the wave : period 1 of 19 generally have a long wave length and a wave period of up to 20 seconds swellwaves 2 of 19 typically has a short wave length, greater height and a shorter wave length period stormwave 3 of 19 friction between the sea floor and the water profoundly changes the speed, direction and ......... of the waves shape 4 of 19 waves slow down as they .......... along the bottom of the sea bed drag 5 of 19 wave length decreases and ...... waves start to bunch up successive 6 of 19 deepest part of the wave .............. down more than the top of the wave slows 7 of 19 wave begins to steepen as the crest ............. ahead of the base advances 8 of 19 water depth is less than 1.3 times the wave height, causes the wave to topple over and ....... break 9 of 19 steep waves breaking onto gently sloping beaches, the water spills gently forward as the wave breaks spilling 10 of 19 moderately steep waves breaking onto steep beaches, the water plunges vertically downwards as the crest curls over plunging 11 of 19 low-angle waves breaking onto steep beaches, the wave slides foward and may not actually break. surging 12 of 19 after a wave has broken water moves up the beach as swash 13 of 19 what is swash driven by? ( 3 words) transfer of energy 14 of 19 when the water is drawn back down the beach it is called backwash 15 of 19 tend to be quite low in height, have a long wave length and a low frequency, typically around six to eight per min. constructive 16 of 19 greater height, shorter wavelengths and a higher frequency often about 12-14 per min destructive 17 of 19 often occur during the winter months and remove material from the top of the beach and transport it to the offshore zone reducing beach gradient. high energy 18 of 19 typical of summer months, build up the beach face, steepening the profile low energy 19 of 19
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