physical factors influencing coastal landscapes
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- Created by: beaw18
- Created on: 24-04-19 12:41
winds
- winds generate wave action; the source of coastal erosion and sediment transportation
- waves generated by frictional drag of winds across ocean surface
- the higher the windspeed, the longer the fetch - the larger the waves and the energy they have
- onshore winds blow sea towards land
- if wind blows at angle that is not directly to the land, this generates longshore drift
- wind also erodes, transports and deposits
- called aeolian processes
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wave anatomy
- waves do not move water foward, but impart a circular motion on particular molecules - rises and falls but does not move foward
- wave anatomy:
- crest - highest part of wave
- trough - lowest part
- wave height - distance between crest and trough
- wave length - distance between adjacent crests or troughs
- wave frequency - number of waves per minute
- wave period - time interval between crests
- swell waves - formed in open seas and travel huge distances. long wave-length with wave periods of up to twenty seconds
- storm waves - locally generated, short wavelength, large in height, short wave period
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types of wave
- breaking waves
- waves in shallow water (depth of half the wavelength) come into contact with sea flaw
- friction of seafloor changes the speed, direction and shape
- slows down, wavelength decreases, deepest part becomes slower than crest, waves topples and breaks.
- 3 categories:
- spilling - steep waves breaking onto gently sloping beaches, water spills gently forward as wave breaks
- plunging - steep waves break onto steep beaches, water plunges vertically
- surging - low-angle waves break onto steep beaches, slide forward and may not actually break
- swash - water of the broken wave moving up the beach, draw back into sea is backwash
- constructive waves - low height, long wavelength, low frequency, break as spilling waves, swash exceeds backwash energy
- destructive waves - greater height, short wavelength, higher frequency, break as plunging waves, swash is less than backwash energy
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tides
- periodic rise and fall of sea surface produced by the gravitational pull of the moon
- moon pulls water towards it, creating high tide, and there is a compensatory lowered tide where the moon is not facing
- hightide follows moon as it orbits the earth
- highest tide occurs when sun, moon and earth are all aligned as the gravitational pull is at its strongest
- happens twice each lunar month, results in spring tides with highest tidal range
- neap tides - occur twice a month when moon and sun are at right angle to eachother, so gravitational pull is at its weakest
- tidal range important to coastal landscape:
- enclosed seas such as the Mediterranean have low tidal ranges and so wave action is limited
- where the coast is funelled, such as the Severn Estaury, tides are drastically higher or lower
- weathering processes have the most impact on the land between tides
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geology
- lithology - physical and chemical composition of rocks
- clay has weak lithology as it has little resistance to erosion or weathering
- bond that make up clay are weak
- basalt is made of dense, interlocking crystals giving it strong lithology as it is highly resistant to erosion and weathering
- form coastal features such as headlands and cliffs
- chalk and limestone are soluable in weak acids, and are vulneral to chemical weathering
- structure - properties of individual rock types such as jointing, bedding and faulting as well as the permeability of rocks
- porous rocks - tiny air spaces seperate particles. means pores can store water - known as primary permeability
- limestone permeable as water can seep in joints - known as secondary permeability
- concordant coasts - rocks run parallel to coast
- discordant coastline - rocks lie at right angles to the coast, resistant rocks headlands, less resistant form bays
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currents
- nearshore currents - currents which exist in nearshore zone/the surf
- offshore currents - larger currents which exist out at sea
- rip currents - strong current that flows seaward from the shore
- important role in transportation of coastal sediments
- create cusps (arch pattern of sediment on beach)
- ocean current - larger scale phenomena generated by earth's rotation and convection
- set in motion by movement of winds across water surface
- warm currents transfer heat from equatorial regions to poles
- cold currents transfer cold from poles to equatorial regions
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terrestrial
- rivers major source of sediment input - as much as 80% of coastal sediment comes from rivers in some areas
- sediment in rivers comes from inland erosion from water, wind and ice
- cliff erosion adds to sediment budget
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offshore
- constructive waves bring sediment to the shore from offshore locations and deposit it, adding to sediment budget
- tides and currents also do this
- wind blows sediment from other locations such as dunes
- aeloian material is light to be carried
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human
- beach nourishment is one way we tackle sediment equilibrium
- sand and water can also be pumped and dumped, then spread by bulldozers
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