As wind blows over the sea's surface, friction is created producing a swell in the water. The energy of the wind causes the particles in the swell to rotate. The wave moves forward.
The size and energy of a wave is decided by:
- the length of time that the wind has been blowing for
- the strength and power of the wind
- how far the wave has travelled (called the fetch)
Waves can be destructive or constructive.
When a wave breaks onto the beach, water is washed up the beach: this is called the swash. Then the water runs back down the beach: this is called the backwash. With a constructive wave, the swash is stronger than the backwash. With a destructive wave, the backwash is stronger than the swash.
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