Geography coastal processes

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how are waves created
by wind blowing over the surface of the sea
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as wind blows over the sea, friction is created, producing a what in the water
a swell
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what are the 3 things that influence the size and energy of a wave
how long the wind has been blowing, the strength of the wind, how far the wind has travelled
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what is the fetch
how far the wave has travelled
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what are the two types of waves
destructive and constructive
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when a wave breaks, the water is washed up the beach, this is what
the SWASH
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when a wave runs back down the beach, this is what
the BACKWASH
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when a swash is stronger than backwash, what type of wave is this
constructive
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when the backwash is stronger than swash, what type of wave is this
destructive
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how are destructive waves created
by powerful wind that has been blowing for a long time, and wave energy is high.
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which type of wave erodes the coast more
destructive waves
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which type of wave deposits material more
constructive waves
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what are the characteristics of a destructive wave
short wave length, and are high and steep in height
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what are the characteristics of a constructive wave
long wavelength, low in height
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when are destructive waves most common
in storm conditions
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when are constructive waves most common
calm weather
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which type of wave is more powerful
destructive
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what are the 4 types of coastal erosion
hydraulic action, abrasion, attrition, and solution
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describe hydraulic action
air and water becomes trapped in in the cracks of cliffs, and the trapped air is compressed and weakens the cliff causing coastal erosion
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describe abrasion
bits of rock and sand grind down cliff surfaces (like sand paper)
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describe attrition
waves smash rocks and pebble onto shore into each other, and they break down and become smoother
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describe solution
acids in the sea water dissolve some types of rock such as chalk and limestone
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define marine erosion
Coastal erosion is the wearing away and breaking up of rock along the coast.
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where has the material in the sea come from
eroded from cliffs, transported by longshore drift along the coastline,brought inland from offshore by constructive waves, carried to the coastline by rivers
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waves can approach the coast at a what, because of prevailing wind
an angles
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what does the swash do on the beach
the swash carries material up the beach at an angles
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what does the backwash do on the beach
flow back to the sea in a straight line at 90 degrees
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the movement of this material is called what
transportation
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continual swash and backwash transports material, in what direction along the coast
sideways along the coast
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the movement of material is called what
longshore drift
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what does longshore drift look like
a zig zag pattern
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what are the 4 ways that waves and tidal currents transport sediment
solution, suspension, saltation, traction
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explain solution
mineral dissolved in seas water, and carried in solution
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explain suspension
small particles carried in the water, which make the water look cloudly
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explain saltation
the load bounces or 'hops' along the sea bed
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explain traction
pebbles and larger sediment are rolled along the sea bed
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what happens when the sea loses energy
it drops the sand, rock particles,and pebbles it has been carrying
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what is this process called
deposition
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when does deposition happen
when swash is stronger than backwash
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what type of waves are associated with deposition
constructive waves
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what types of condition encourage deposition
when there is little wind, a good supply of material; and when waves enter a shallow area, or a sheltered area e.g. cove or a bay
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Other cards in this set

Card 2

Front

as wind blows over the sea, friction is created, producing a what in the water

Back

a swell

Card 3

Front

what are the 3 things that influence the size and energy of a wave

Back

Preview of the front of card 3

Card 4

Front

what is the fetch

Back

Preview of the front of card 4

Card 5

Front

what are the two types of waves

Back

Preview of the front of card 5
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