FASHION HISTORY

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  • FASHION HISTORY
    • 1920 - 1930
      • Coco Chanel
        • fashion icon, influential designer
        • meet the needs of the modern and give women freedom of movement
        • trousers / tweeds / little black dress / blazers / raincoats / slingback shoes etc.
        • designed comfortable, loose blouses, chemise dresses and clothes that were sporty and relaxed
          • no corsets - fewer linings, lighter and more flexible
        • broke away from fussy overdecorated norm of 20th century
        • 1916 - knitted jersey -cheap to produce cardigans and twinsets
        • adapted men's tailoring producing classic suits with short skirts. good cut finish and high quality fabric
      • Context
        • post  WW1
        • Prohibition
        • women earned their right to vote and entered workplace
        • increasing prosperity
          • people had more money to spend - leisure
        • Paris influence
      • 1930
        • gradual spread of electricity
          • designers could design new ranges of products using new technology
        • outbreak of WW1 in 1939
          • middle class homes had consumer durables, radio, toasters, fridges etc
        • living standards improved - demand increased - advertising important new industry
      • Wall Street Crash 1929
        • advertising used to motivate people to begin spending again
      • Fashion
        • no more corsets
        • sportswear to support  encouraged active lifestyle
        • heels became higher - 2 to 3 inches
        • Flapper
          • hemlines rose to allow for new charleston craze
          • functional and flattened the bust as a pose to accentuating it
          • dropped waist
        • long skirts replaced with shorter and trousers
          • more practical
          • relaxed
          • masculine
    • 1940 - 1950
      • Fashion
        • theme of glamour returned 1940
          • 'New look' by Dior
            • riots = inappropriate as thought to be wasteful
            • women were attacked for wearing the fashion
              • conservative approach to fashion
          • full skirts and tight bodices
          • provided women with extravagance
          • clothes rationed - materials scarce - hem lines rose - knee length
          • evening dresses still glamarous
      • Baby Boomers
        • growing up into powerful and highly impressionable  teenagers
        • important target market group - teens
        • teenagers not existed before 1950s
          • teens used to wear what their parents wore
        • Girls - tight bodices, full skirts , wide belts, flat shoes
          • Boys -  teddy boys - long drape trousers, narrow jackets, thick-soled shoes
        • tv - helped touch peoples lives all over the world. creating new wants and dictating spending patterns
    • 1960 - 1970
      • Context
        • young people rebelled against ideas and fashions of parents
        • age  of 'flower power' , hippies and experimentation
        • mini-skirt, Op art , space travel, Mary Quant, unisex trousers
      • Fashion
        • youth culture =  street fashion = haute couture
        • hippie movement
          • interest in ehtnic and indian clothing
          • culture of the east
          • continue to influence designers today
        • development of new young markets for designers
          • RTW lines developed fuelled by media, pop culture and advertising
      • Designers
        • Vivienne Westwood
          • ******* collection - studded, strapped buckled clothing
          • shocking at the time
          • influential shop, leather and rubber clothing
          • influence mainstream fashion. setting off the punk trend
          • underwear worn as over wear - corsets - crinolines
          • grunge - torn clothing, exposed seams
        • Issey Miyake
        • Mary Quant
          • unisex trouser suits
          • mini skirt
  • inspired the look of the 50's
    • full skirts and narrow waists
    • 'New look' by Dior
      • riots = inappropriate as thought to be wasteful
      • women were attacked for wearing the fashion
        • conservative approach to fashion
    • taken up by teens

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