Fabric Construction
- Created by: Beth_trim
- Created on: 27-02-18 19:23
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- Fabric Construction
- Woven
- Types of weave
- Plain
- The simplest and tightest weave (over and under)
- Closer the yarns, dancer the fabrics
- same on both sides - easiest to make
- It is hard wearing and hs smooth finish (good for printing on)
- eg. Calico
- Twill
- Weft yarn goes over more than one warp yarn (2/4)
- Creates a diagonal pattern on the surface of the fabric
- Stronger and drapes better than plain weave
- eg. Tweed or Tratan
- Weft yarn goes over more than one warp yarn (2/4)
- Satin
- Weft yarn floats over 4 or more yarns to give a real sheen to the fabric
- Long weft yarns on the surface catch the light so stain weaves make shiny fabrics
- However the floats can snag - its a delicate fabric
- Long weft yarns on the surface catch the light so stain weaves make shiny fabrics
- eg. Satin
- Weft yarn floats over 4 or more yarns to give a real sheen to the fabric
- Jacquard
- Weaves have complex patterns
- Such as; flowers, leaves, lettering etc.
- Weaves have complex patterns
- Pile
- Woven with a n extra layer of weft yarns that forms loops on the surface
- eg. Velvet or Courduroy
- Plain
- In woven fabrics, yarns are interlaced at right angles to each other
- The horizontal yarns are called the weft yarn
- The vertical yarns are called the warp yarn
- The bias is the diagonal
- The selvedges the edge of the fabric which docent fray
- Properties
- Edges do not fray until cut but do fray easily when they are
- Can be woven at different densities and have different weights
- Strongest on the grain line and stretch at the bias
- Stronger and firmer the closer the weave is
- Types of weave
- Kintted
- A knitted fabric is made of interlocking loops, using one or more yarns
- These loops trap air, making knitted fabrics good insulators
- There are two types of knitted fabrics;
- Weft Knit
- The yarn runs across the fabric, making interlocking loops with he row of yarn beneath
- They have v-shapes loops on the right side and horizontal ribs on the wrong side
- If the yarn breaks it can unravel and form a ladder
- They have v-shapes loops on the right side and horizontal ribs on the wrong side
- These fabrics stretch and can loose their shape easily
- They can be produced by hand or machine
- Properties
- High elasticity and stretch
- Insulating
- The interlocking loops trap air and retain heat
- Eg. Single Jersy
- Used for; T-shirts, sweaters, ribbed socks & jumpers, sports wear etc.
- The yarn runs across the fabric, making interlocking loops with he row of yarn beneath
- Warp Knit
- The yarn loops in a vertical direction
- Warp knitted fabrics can only be machine made
- The production system is fast
- The machine is complicated and therefore more expensive to produce
- The fabric is elastic but can keep its shape
- These fabrics are hard to unravel and are less likely to ladder so can be cut and sewn more easily than weft knit
- Eg. Lock Knit
- Used for; bed sheets, furnishing fabrics, velour, swimwear fabrics, lace, fleece fabrics etc.
- Weft Knit
- A knitted fabric is made of interlocking loops, using one or more yarns
- Non-woven
- Non-woven fabrics are made by either felting or bonding
- Properties
- Not very strong
- Can be made...
- in a range of weights
- into moulded shapes
- from recycled fabrics
- to be soluble
- to soften with heat and act like a glue
- to be permeable
- Do not fray
- Can easily pile ( bible)
- May be weaker when wet
- They are cheep to produce
- Will also take on some of the properties of the fibre used in the web
- Felting
- Wool felt is the most common and is produced by using short staple fibres from wool or other animal hairs
- Wool is an ideal fibre because its surface has natural hooklike scales
- Which when moisture, heat and vigorous movement are applied, interlock with each other
- Felt is made by combining pressure, posture and heat to interlock a mat of fibres
- The heat and damp conditions cause the fibres to curl up, and the scales locking together prevents the fires from straightening out again
- Felt can be used for; carpet underly, craft material, hats, jewellery, snooker table coverings etc.
- Wool is an ideal fibre because its surface has natural hooklike scales
- Wool felt is the most common and is produced by using short staple fibres from wool or other animal hairs
- Bonded
- These are webs of fibres half together by glue, stitches, needle-punching or heat
- Dry laid
- A web of fibres is laid in a drum and hot air is ejected to bond the fibres
- Wet laid
- A web of fibres is mixed with a solvent that softens the fibres and realises z glue-like substance that bonds the fibres together and then the web is laid out to dry
- Direct spun
- The fibres are spun onto a conveyer belt and guts are sprayed onto the fibres, which are then pressed to bond
- If the fibres are thermoplastic (will change shape with heat) then the glue is not nee in this process
- The fibres are spun onto a conveyer belt and guts are sprayed onto the fibres, which are then pressed to bond
- Dry laid
- Bonded fabrics are used fr disposable products such as cloths, medical masks and table linen
- Can also be used for interfacings for strengthening and stiffening clothing
- These are webs of fibres half together by glue, stitches, needle-punching or heat
- Laminated
- Laminated fabrics are made by bonding two or more fabrics together
- Many fabrics require extra insulation or protection - foam is bonded to provide this
- Making a fabric breathable and waterproof may require lamination of a membrane
- As in; Gortex and Sympatex
- Woven
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