coastal landscape systems are influenced by a range of physical factors

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  • Created by: cloud12
  • Created on: 11-06-22 18:58
winds
- wave energy is generated by the the frictional drag of wind moving across the ocean surface
- high wind energy + long fetch = large waves with more energy
- fetch= the distance of open water of which the wave travel's before it breaks
- onshore waves a
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waves
- waves possess potential and kinetic energy
- waves break when the waters get too shallow as the circular motion is interrupted
- waves hitting the landscape can cause erosion
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3 types of breaking waves
- spilling= steep waves breaking onto gently sloping beaches, water spills gently forward as the wave breaks
- plunging= moderately steep waves breaking onto steep beaches, water plunges vertically downwards as the crest curls over
- surging= low angle wa
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constructive waves
- low in height
- long wavelength
- low frequency (6-8 per min)
- usually break as spilling waves
- strong swash- transport sand up the beach
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destructive waves
- tall in height
- short wavelength
- high frequency
- plunging wave
- strong backwash- eroded material deposited offshore
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tides
- tidal ranges influences where wave action occurs
- weathering/erosion process happen on exposed land between tides
- low tidal range= restricted narrow area affected by wave action
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geology- lithology
- the physical and chemical composition of the rocks
- weak= little resistance to erosion, weathering and mass movement (clay)- bonds between particles are weak
- strong= high resistant to erosion, weathering and mass movement, more likely to make promin
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geology- structure
- the properties of an individual rock
- examples= jointing, bedding, faulting, permeability
- structure has an important influence on the planform of coasts- concordant (rocks that run parallel to the coastline) and discordant (rock that lies at a right
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currents
- rip currents= play important role in the transport of coastal sediment, caused by tidal motion or by waves breaking at right angles to the shore
- ocean currents= generated by earths rotation and convection, transfer heat around the ocean
- transfer of
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Other cards in this set

Card 2

Front

waves

Back

- waves possess potential and kinetic energy
- waves break when the waters get too shallow as the circular motion is interrupted
- waves hitting the landscape can cause erosion

Card 3

Front

3 types of breaking waves

Back

Preview of the front of card 3

Card 4

Front

constructive waves

Back

Preview of the front of card 4

Card 5

Front

destructive waves

Back

Preview of the front of card 5
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