Woven Fabric

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Twill Weave

Weft yarn runs over 2, under 2

  • Lots of stretch 
  • Durable
  • Stretches on bias
  • Frays when cut
  • May catch/ snag as there is more under/over weaves
  • Prone to fraying- must use a durable seam
  • Use a high heat when ironing to penerate the fibres

Fabrics: Denim

Products: Jeans, dress, skirts, shorts, bags

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Properties

  • Edges do not fray until cut
  • Woven in different weights (e.g. chiffon and denim)
  • Strongest on the grain line
  • Stretches on the bias
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Making The Weave

  • Warp yarns are fixed to the loom
  • Warp yarns run the length of the fabric
  • Warp yarns are stronger and have less stretch
  • Weft yarns run across the width of the fabric
  • Weft yarns turn back to create the slevedge
  • Weft yarns can add decoration and colour
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Plain Weave

Weft yarn runs over 1 under 1

  • Doesnt fray until cut
  • Comfortable
  • Easy to care for
  • Quick and Easy to make
  • Strongest on the Grain line
  • Can add different colour on weft yarn to create a pattern
  • Easy to print on - flat weave
  • Stretches on bias
  • Can pucker/ snag on delicate fabrics
  • Ansure you cut on stright of grain

Fabrics: calico, voile, ripstop, gingham, terry towelling

Products: almost anything

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Tartan Weave

Weft yarn goes in and out in a twill weave. Gives visible diagonal lines wherre different colours cross to give the appearance of new colours blended together from the original ones. 

  • Mainly made by hand (tradition)
  • Proper high quality wool used
  • Can be hard matching up the pattern- can create more waste so use a lay plan to match up.
  • Frays a lot due to less in and out weaves making it more loose
  • Put interfacing in the product to stop stretching and misshaping

Products: Kilts, scarfs, woolen blankets

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Satin Weave

Weft yarn goes over 3 or 4, under 1

  • Smooth, shiney surface
  • Dull back of fabric
  • Difficult to print on as it is slippery (can dye in industry)
  • Fray a lot due to loose weave (could use interfacing/ use laser cutter/ more pins)
  • Slips around a lot when sewing (use more pins)
  • Catches and snags when sewing (use a thinner needle)
  • Immediatly overlock due to fraying
  • Dry clean only as it can loose its sheen and can snag in machine
  • Stains easily with water marks
  • Iron on a low heat with synthetic fibres and medium with natural
  • Cut on the bias to allow stretch

Fabrics: Organza, ployester satin, duchess satin

Products: Evening wear, curtains, linings, ribbons and trimmings

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Pile Weave

Chop in half to reveal two fabrics and visble lines in fabric 

  • More stetch due to looser weave (use interfacing)
  • It doesnt fray at the edge, it rolls over
  • Natural shine
  • Very durable
  • Warm - used in winter clothes
  • Natural Texture
  • No ironing needed
  • Not long lasting as the fur can wear away to create bald patches 
  • Long time to dry as the hair absobs the water
  • Really thick
  • Handwash only, machine can create bald patches
  • Ironing can burn/remove hairs can shine

Fabrics: Velvet, Courdroy, Terry Towelling

Products: Evening wear, cushions

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Jacquard Weave

  • Made on CAD/CAM which plots and plans the design
  • Made on a Jacquard machine
  • Very comlicated design produced
  • Repeat pattern
  • Rasied weave
  • 3D texture
  • Very quick construction (machine)
  • Visible right and wrong side
  • Doesnt snag 
  • Machine washable
  • It will fray (use a laser cutter to prevent this)
  • Hard to match up the pattern (creates waste)
  • Adjust to a thicker needle when sewing
  • Cant iron fabric as it is raised
  • Nots of bulk (use panels instead of darts)

Products: Sofas, Cushions, Dresses, Jackets

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Crepe Weave

  • Made through a crinkly yarn
  • Textured yarn
  • Highly twsisted yarn
  • Light weight
  • Crinkly Surface
  • Plain Weave (but stronger)
  • Adds texture that traps heat
  • Very strong
  • Can shrink in the wash
  • Bobbles when washed
  • Can fray but less than most weaves
  • Difficult to keep edges flat due to crinkle (notches, difficult to match up, tape, extra pins)
  • A high ironing temp can de-crinkle
  • Stretches in all directions

Fabrics: Crepe Silk

Products: accesories, blouses, underwear, lining

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