The Coastal Zone

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Fetch
Length of water the wind blows over when creating a wave
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Prevailing wind
Direction that most of the wind comes from
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Swash
Waves breaking onto the shore
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Backwash
Water draining back down the beach
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Constructive waves
Waves that build up the beach, have a stronger swash, form gently sloping beaches and are quite frequence
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Destructive waves
Waves that erode the beach, have a stronger backwash, form steep sloping beaches and are less frequent
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Wave refraction
Bending of waves when meeting a bay and headlands
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Abrasion
Broken rock fragments thrown by water at a cliff face, which breaks
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Hydraulic action
Waves hit the cliff face and air and water is trapped in cracks, later expanding and breaking the cliff
9 of 38
Corrosion/solution
Chemical action of the sea on rocks
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Attrition
Material carried by the waves crashes into other material
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Longshore drift
The movement of material down the beach by waves having a swash in the direction of prevailing wind and a backwash straight backwards
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Weathering
Break up or decay of rocks
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Biological weathering
Weathering caused by living organisms such as tree roots or burrowing animals
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Mechanical weathering
Weathering by physical force (eg freeze-thaw)
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Chemical weathering
Weathering by a chemical reaction (eg acid rain reacting with limestone)
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Freeze-thaw weathering
Water repeatedly freezing and thawing inside cracks in rocks, expanding the rock and breaking it apart
17 of 38
Wave cut notch
Waves break on base of cliff, eventually eroding so much that the top of the cliff falls and the process repeats
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Headland
Resistant rock left jutting out after erosion
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Bay
Less resistant rock eroded away between headlands
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Discordant coastline
Coastline with alternating resistant and less resistant rock
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Concordant coastline
Coastline with one type of rock along its length
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Sea stack
Column in the sea created by erosion
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Spit
Accumulation of deposited material as a result of longshore drift
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Tombolo
Formed when a spit continues to grow out to sea
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Bar
Formed when a spit meets a headland- will have a lagoon behind it
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Hold the line
Taking action to keep the line of coast where it currently is (eg with a sea wall)
27 of 38
Advance the line
Active intervention to produce a defence line along the coast (eg increasing size of the beach)
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Managed retreat
Allowing the land to flood and erode
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Hard engineering schemes
Man made structures to work against natural coastal processes
30 of 38
Soft engineering schemes
Man made but natural looking structures working with natural coastal processes
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Slumping
Rain water seeping down through cliff, reducing friction and causing them to slope down
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Eustatic
Sea level changing globally
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Istotatic
Land changing locally (resulting in sea level change)
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Thermal expansion
Sea levels rise due to temperature rise because the water expands
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Isostatic rebound/uplift
When ice on land melts, the land below it rises as though it were a compressed sponge, making sea levels appear to have lowered
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Pioneer plant
First plant species to colonise a harsh area to live in
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Vegetation succession
A sequence of vegetation species colonising an environment
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Other cards in this set

Card 2

Front

Direction that most of the wind comes from

Back

Prevailing wind

Card 3

Front

Waves breaking onto the shore

Back

Preview of the back of card 3

Card 4

Front

Water draining back down the beach

Back

Preview of the back of card 4

Card 5

Front

Waves that build up the beach, have a stronger swash, form gently sloping beaches and are quite frequence

Back

Preview of the back of card 5
View more cards

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