the coastal system- zone

?
what percent of world pop lives on coastal plains?
50%
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coasts consist of zones with specific conditions depending on what?
tide
waves
action
sea depth
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what is back shore?
area from high water mark to the inland limit of storms
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what is foreshore?
fare from HWM to LWM
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foreshore is the most important zone for marine processes in times that are not influenced by what?
storm activity
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what is inshore?
area between LWM and point where waves case to have influence on land beneath them
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what is offshore?
area where waves cease to impact upon the sea bed and deposition is the main activity
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the foreshore and inshore are further didved inot what three zone s?
swash zone
surf zone
breaker zone
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what is the swash zone, surf zone and the breaker zone?
swash- waves rush up beach
surf- mass of broken water in breaker zone of shoreline. foaming water= high wave activity
breaker- waves break onto a shoreline
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what type of system is the coast ?
OPEN
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what are the imputs of a coast?
energy to drive system- waves, wind ,tides, currents. boosted by STORM SURGES and tidal WAVES
sediment- comes from rivers, cliffs been eroded or landslide. sediment been transported by waves from offshore (out off sea)
human activity
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what are the processes of a coast
wave action, tidal movement, erosion, weathering, transportation(Longshore drift), deposition
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what are the outputs of a coast?
sediment- washed out to sea or deposited further along coat
coats landform (beaches) - erosive and depositional
wave energy loss
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beaches are at what type of equilibrium
dynamic
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what does it mean if a coats is at dynamic equilibrium?
there are equal amounts of inputs and outputs)
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what does the negative feedback cycle do?
when sediment is taken away from the beach and deposited somewhere else the outputs are stronger than the inputs so the beach isn't at equilibrium so the NFC brings the sediment back and makes the beach at dynamic equilibrium. (visaversa for the positive
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waves are created by what?
wind blowing over the sea. the friction between the wind and the surface is what gives the sea a circular motion.
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as waves approach shore they break, what does this?
the friction between the water and the sea bed slows the bottom of the waves and makes their motion more elliptical. the crest of the wave rises then collapses.
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what is swash and backwash ?
swash- water rushing up beach.
backwash- water rushing towards sea
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what are the two types of waves ?
constructive
destructive
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what are the properties of a constructive wave?
(frequency, width and height, cross profile, swash, backwash)
freq- low(6-8 per min)
width- long
height - low
cross- elliptical
powerful swash weak backwash.
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what are the properties of a destructive wave?
(frequency, width and height, cross profile, swash, backwash)
freq- high (10-14 per min)
width - shorter
height- high and steep
cross- circular
STRONG BACKWASH weak swash
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what is wave refraction ?
where waves reach and irregular coastline, they're refracted- more parallel to coastline.
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where is this best shown?
where a headland separates two bays.
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what are orthogonals
lines drawn at right angles to wave crests
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Other cards in this set

Card 2

Front

coasts consist of zones with specific conditions depending on what?

Back

tide
waves
action
sea depth

Card 3

Front

what is back shore?

Back

Preview of the front of card 3

Card 4

Front

what is foreshore?

Back

Preview of the front of card 4

Card 5

Front

foreshore is the most important zone for marine processes in times that are not influenced by what?

Back

Preview of the front of card 5
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