The fetch is how far the wind blows. The longer the fetch the stronger the waves but the longer the wind blows the weaker the waves.
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What is prevailing wind?
Prevailing wind is the dominating direction of where the wind blows most of the year.
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What is Swash
How far up the beach the wave goes and how powerful or weak it is.
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What is backwash
How powerful the wave is when it goes back out or when it just goes back out.
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What Is Tidal Range?
the difference between high tide and low tide.
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What is the tide and what causes it?
The tide is the gravitational pull of the water by a colossal object. For Earth the gravitational pull is the moon. This causes seas to come out towards the direction of the moon causing the tide.
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What are the four types of erosion?
Hydraulic Action, abrasion, corrosion and attrition.
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What are the three phases of a river?
Upper Course, Middle Course and lower course.
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What is weathering?
Weathering is where rocks gradually break away over a period of time.
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What is Attrition?
When waves smash pebbles and rocks into each other and then they break and become smoother, smaller and rounded.
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What Is Abrasion?
When rocks and pebbles are rubbing against the cliff by the waves.
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What Is Hydraulic Action?
When water traps air in faults in the cliff and when the wave breaks the trapped air is compressed and therefore weakening the cliff.
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What is erosion?
The wearing away of rock and soil found along the river bed. It involves the breaking down of cliffs and rocks.
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What Is transport?
When materials such as rocks, pebbles and sediment are transported down the river.
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What is deposition?
When the river or sea loses energy and drops rocks and pebbles down on the river bed.
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What are shingles?
Shingles are beaches armoured with small to medium sized cobbles.
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What Is a wave cut platform?
Wave-cut platforms form when destructive waves hit against the cliff face, causing undercutting leaving a result of corrosion and hydraulic action creating a wave-cut notch. This notch then enlarges into a cave
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What Is a bar?
A bar is when sediment is deposited in front of a bay connecting to beaches together and leaving a salt-water lake.
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What is a spit?
. A spit is an extended stretch of beach material that projects out to sea and is joined to the mainland at one end.
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How does a cave form?
waves force their way into cracks in the cliff face. The water contains sand and other materials that grind away at the rock until the cracks become a cave.
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How does a Arch Form?
If the cave is formed in a headland, it may eventually break through to the other side forming an arch.
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How does a stack Form?
When the arch collapses, it leaves the headland on one side and a stack
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How does a stump form?
The stack will be attacked at the base. This weakens the structure and it will eventually collapse to form a stump.
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How Does A bar form?
A bar forms when sediment is deposited in front of a bay making the bay a salt-water lake
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How Does A spit Form?
Longshore drift moves material along the coastline. A spit forms when the material is deposited. Over time, the spit grows and develops a hook if wind direction changes further out. Waves cannot get past a spit, which creates a sheltered area where s
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What Is A tombolo?
A tombolo is a spit connecting an island to the mainland.
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What is long shore Drift?
Long shore drift is the angle at which waves go up and down the beach ( i.e.. 90 degrees up 45 degrees down)
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Other cards in this set
Card 2
Front
What is prevailing wind?
Back
Prevailing wind is the dominating direction of where the wind blows most of the year.
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