coasts

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  • Created by: siobhan
  • Created on: 01-04-14 20:28
What causes waves?
Wind causing frictional drag across the surface of the water
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What is the fetch?
The distance across which a wave travels
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What factors influence the power of a wave?
Length of the fetch, strength of the wind,duration of the wind
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What is wave frequency?
The number of waves per minute
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what is the waver period?
time taken for one wave to pass a given point
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what are the features of a constructive wave?
Strong swash- focus of energy is horizontal, weak backwash- wave energy is gone, shallow wide sandy beaches, longer wave length, shorter wave height
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what are the features of a destructive wave?
focus of swash is vertical- scours the beach, strong backwash- removes sediment, shorter wavelength, greater wave height, steep shingle/pebble beaches
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What is wave refraction?
a bending of the wave crest to fit the coastline
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What is a sediment cell
a length of coastline in which sediment is transferred
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name sources of sediment in a sediment cell
erosion of headlands/cliffs, alluvial input from rivers
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name sediment sink in a sediment cell
beaches, bars, spits, salt marshes, off-shore bars, sand dunes
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What are tides?
regular changes in sea level that occur over a 24 hour period
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What causes tides?
the gravitational pull of the moon, the sun, and the earth spinning on its axis
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name the types of tide in order of height, highest first
spring high tide, mean high tide, neap high tide, neap low tide, mean low tide, spring low tide
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what is mean tidal range?
the mean difference in sea level between mean high tide and mean low tide
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what is the maximum tidal range?
the difference between spring high tide and spring low tide
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Other cards in this set

Card 2

Front

What is the fetch?

Back

The distance across which a wave travels

Card 3

Front

What factors influence the power of a wave?

Back

Preview of the front of card 3

Card 4

Front

What is wave frequency?

Back

Preview of the front of card 4

Card 5

Front

what is the waver period?

Back

Preview of the front of card 5
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