Waves are formed by air-water interface and also human activities such a boats. They move in a circular orbital motion when as the wave travels, the water passes energy along by moving in a circle.
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What was French's theory?
that there are different sources of energy depending on the amount of energy. from low to high energy it goes wind, tide, wave dominated (landforms). High energy causes erosion, low energy causes deposition.
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What are the different sources of energy and what does the energy transferred depend on?
sources of energy= winds, waves, currents and tides... The energy transferred depends on: Direction and duration of wind, strength of wind and the fetch.
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What are the characteristics of constructive waves?
small gentle waves, stronger swash than backwash. The wave energy is absorbed by the beach and these waves make flat beaches.
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What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
high, steep waves, stronger backwash than swash so sediment is pulled back, this makes the beaches steep.
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How are tides and currents formed?
From the gravitational pull of the moon and sun which causes water on earth to move around.
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What is a spring tide?
when the sun and moon align and when there is the greatest difference between high and low water
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What is a neap tide?
when the sun and moon are at right angles and there is least difference between high and low water.
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How do rip currents occur?
they form when waves break near the shoreline and the backwash is forced back below the surface.
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What is a high energy coast?
High energy coasts are rocky with powerful waves, erosion is higher than deposition so landforms such as headlands and cliffs are there
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What is a low energy coast?
Low energy coasts are sandy with waves that are less powerful, deposition is higher than erosion so land forms such as beaches and spits occur.
a stretch of coastline, usually bordered by two headlands, where the movement of sediment is contained
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how many sediment cells are in england? give an example
11. for e.g. the river thames or lands end.
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what is a sediment budget?
sediment budgets refer to the balance between sediment added to and removed from the coastal system. They are used to describe the different inputs and outputs on coasts.
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what are the three types of weathering?
physical (mechanical), biological and chemical
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Other cards in this set
Card 2
Front
What was French's theory?
Back
that there are different sources of energy depending on the amount of energy. from low to high energy it goes wind, tide, wave dominated (landforms). High energy causes erosion, low energy causes deposition.
Card 3
Front
What are the different sources of energy and what does the energy transferred depend on?
Back
Card 4
Front
What are the characteristics of constructive waves?
Back
Card 5
Front
What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
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