Waves directly influence erosion, transport and deposition and the shape of the coastline. they are caused by friction between wind and water.
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What is the impact of wind blowing on the surface of water?
The force of wind blowing on the surface of water generates ripples, which grow into waves if the wind is sustained, water itself only moves up and down.
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What factors do waves depend on?
Strength of wind; duration of wind; water depth and wave fetch.
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What are swell waves?
Waves that continue and reach the beach even when the wind that caused the has stopped.
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Why do waves break in shallow water?
Waves break in shallow water because the crest of the wave begins to move faster then the wave itself.
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What is swash?
The flow of water up the beach as a new wave breaks.
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What is backwash?
When water runs back down the beach to meet a new incoming wave.
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What does a steep berm at the top of a beach mean?
This means that most of the backwash percolates into the beach rather than running across the surface.
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What are destructive waves?
Destructive waves have a height of over 1m and a wave length of around 20m. they are common during storms and have a strong backwash.
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What do storm beaches result from?
Storm beaches result from high energy deposition.
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Other cards in this set
Card 2
Front
What is the impact of wind blowing on the surface of water?
Back
The force of wind blowing on the surface of water generates ripples, which grow into waves if the wind is sustained, water itself only moves up and down.
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