Coastal Zones

What creates waves?
The wind blows across the sea creating small ripples from friction. These then become waves.
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What affects wind speed?
wind speed, the time the wind has been blowing and the fetch (distance the wave has travelled).
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What is swash?
The movement of water as it comes onto the beach from the sea.
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What is backwash?
The movement of water as it drains back off the beach to the sea.
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What does it mean when a wave breaks?
The top of the wave spills over.
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Why do waves break?
When the water is shallower, friction slows the bottom down. The top, unaffected by the friction, become steeper and higher till it topples over.
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What are the 2 types of waves?
Constructive and destructive.
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Which have a stronger swash, constructive and destructive?
Constructive.
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What type of waves have a stronger backwash?
Destructive.
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What is the frequency of the 2 wave types?
Constructive - 6-8 per minute. Destructive - 11-15 per minute.
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What does each type of wave do?
Constructive waves bring sediment up to the beach. Destructive take sediment from the beach.
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What is mass movement?
The downhill movement of material under the influence of gravity.
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What is cliff slumping?
Rain soaks into cracks on the cliff until it reaches the clay. Storm waves attack base of cliff. The cliff becomes unstable and can cause collapse. The material moves in a curved motion down the slope. Waves wash away the fallen material.
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What are rock falls?
Well jointed rocks are prone to freeze-thaw weathering. This results in rocks breaking away and losing contact with the cliffs and falling. They land on the beach.
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What do rock falls form?
Scree slopes.
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What are rock falls common on?
Common on hard rock with vertical cliffs.
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Why is slumping different to rock falls?
Unlike slumping the rock is no longer touching the cliff.
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What is a rock slide?
Thye occur on hard weathered rock. A large amaount of ro
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Other cards in this set

Card 2

Front

What affects wind speed?

Back

wind speed, the time the wind has been blowing and the fetch (distance the wave has travelled).

Card 3

Front

What is swash?

Back

Preview of the front of card 3

Card 4

Front

What is backwash?

Back

Preview of the front of card 4

Card 5

Front

What does it mean when a wave breaks?

Back

Preview of the front of card 5
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