Wearing away of the Earth;s surface by the mechanical action of processes of glaciers, wind, rivers, marine waves and wind
Erosion
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Distance of open water over which a wind blows uninterrupted by major land obstacles
Fetch
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Movement of material downhill under the influence of gravity, but may also be assisted by rainfall
Mass Movement
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Action of water receding back down the beach towards the sea
Backwash
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Waves with a low wave height but with a long wavelength and low frequency of around 6-8/min. Their swash tends to be more powerful than their backwash and as a consequence beach material is built up
Constructive
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Waves with a high wave height with a steep form and high frequency. Their swash is generally stronger than their backwash so more sediment is removed than added
Destructive
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Rush of water up the beach after a wave breaks
Swash
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Where waves approach the shore at an angle and swash and backwash then transport material along the coast in the direction of the prevailing wind and waves
Longhshore drift
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When waves approach a coastline that is not a regular shape, they are refracted and become increasingly parallel to the coastline
Wave refraction
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Periodic rise and fall of the sea in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon
Tides
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Balance between sediment being added to and removed from the coastal system, that system being defined within each individual sediment cell
Coastal sediment budget
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Coastline where strong, steady prevailing winds create high energy waves and the rate of erosion is greater than the rate of deposition
High energy coast
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Coastline where wave energy is low and the rate of deposition often exceeds the rate of erosion of sediment
Low energy coast
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Distinct area of coastline separated from other areas by well defined boundaries such as headlands and stretches of deep water
Sediment Cell
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Operate upon a coastline and are connected with the sea, such as waves, tides and longshore drift
Marine Processes
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Processes that slowly break down the coastline, weaken the underlying rocks and allow sudden movements or erosion to happen more easily
Sub-aerial processes
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A global change in sea level resulting from an actual fall or rise in the level of the sea itself
Eustatic Change
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Former glacial valley drowned by rising sea levels
Fjord
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Local changes in sea level resulting from the land rising or falling relative to the sea
Isostatic Change
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Areas of former wave-cut platforms and their beaches which are at a level higher than the present sea level
Raised beaches
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Former river valley drowned by rising sea levels
Ria
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Making a physical change to the coastal landscape using resistant materials, like concrete, boulders, wood and metal
Hard Engineering
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Using natural systems for coastal defence, such as beaches, dunes and salt marshes, which can absorb and adjust to wave and tide energy
Soft Engineering
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Other cards in this set
Card 2
Front
Distance of open water over which a wind blows uninterrupted by major land obstacles
Back
Fetch
Card 3
Front
Movement of material downhill under the influence of gravity, but may also be assisted by rainfall
Back
Card 4
Front
Action of water receding back down the beach towards the sea
Back
Card 5
Front
Waves with a low wave height but with a long wavelength and low frequency of around 6-8/min. Their swash tends to be more powerful than their backwash and as a consequence beach material is built up
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