when the water has lost energy further up the beach, so runs back down again (under gravity).
1 of 25
Swash
when waves break and water rushes up the beach due to loss of energy.
2 of 25
Destructive Waves
power to erode beaches; big waves which break with lots of energy and force; high frequency; high and steep with a short wavelength, and backwash is greater than swash, so beach is eroded.
3 of 25
Constructive Waves
break on shore, depositing sediment on coastline; low frequency; weak, short, small waves with long wavelength; swash is greater than backwash, so deposits sediment on beach.
4 of 25
Hydraulic Action
water and air are forced into the cracks in the rocks. pressure causes the rocks to shatter.
5 of 25
Attrition
rocks bash together, breaking into smaller pieces, ending up as shingle or sand.
6 of 25
Solution (Corrosion)
water dissolves soluble material from the rock.
7 of 25
Abrasion (Corrasion)
sand, pebbles and stones scrape against the rock, wearing it away.
8 of 25
Fetch
the length of water the wind blows over. the shorter the fetch, the weaker the waves.
9 of 25
Cliff Erosion and Wave-Cut Platforms
Undercutting > Collapse > Retreat > Repeat
10 of 25
Headlands and Bays
headlands made of hard, resistant rock. bays made of weaker, less resistant soft rock. bays eroded, headlands left sticking out and vulnerable to wave energy.
11 of 25
Longshore Drift
waves approach beach at angle determined by prevailing winds > waves break and swash carries material up beach > swash dies, backwash and any sediment carried falls back down beach under gravity > material moves along coast in zig-zag route.
12 of 25
Hard Engineering
hard approaches to management are expensive, short term and work against natural processes.
13 of 25
Sea Wall
concrete structure curved to reflect wave energy back into sea.
14 of 25
Groynes
wooden or concrete barriers built at right angles to beach to prevent longshore drift.
15 of 25
Rip Rap
rocks put in place by coast to protect coast by absorbing wave energy and preventing erosion of coast.
16 of 25
Revetments
wooden slated revetment that helps dissipate force of waves.
17 of 25
Offshore Reefs
structures built out at sea to protect land.
18 of 25
Soft Engineering
soft approaches to management are less expensive, longer term and sustainable as they work with natural processes.
19 of 25
Beach Replenishment
adding sand taken from somewhere else, often offshore.
20 of 25
Managed Retreat
people and activities are gradually moved back from the vulnerable areas of coast.
21 of 25
Cliff Regrading
making the cliff face longer so that it is less steep.
22 of 25
Bar
ridges of sand roughly parallel to the coast.
23 of 25
Tombolo
ridges of sand and other material that link the mainland to the island a little way out to sea.
24 of 25
Spit
narrow ridges of sand with one end attached to land and other reaching out across into the sea.
25 of 25
Other cards in this set
Card 2
Front
when waves break and water rushes up the beach due to loss of energy.
Back
Swash
Card 3
Front
power to erode beaches; big waves which break with lots of energy and force; high frequency; high and steep with a short wavelength, and backwash is greater than swash, so beach is eroded.
Back
Card 4
Front
break on shore, depositing sediment on coastline; low frequency; weak, short, small waves with long wavelength; swash is greater than backwash, so deposits sediment on beach.
Back
Card 5
Front
water and air are forced into the cracks in the rocks. pressure causes the rocks to shatter.
Comments
No comments have yet been made