How waves are formed
1. Out at sea wind tugs the surface of the water, causing the wave to change shape and move.
2. Each water particle moves in a circular motion returning to its starting point.
3. When a wave moves into shallow water it distortes until it breaks.
4. From this moment not only is the energy moving forward but the water is aswell.
5. Swash - water rushes to the beach.
6. Backwash rushes back to…