the costal zone

Waves are formed by wind blowing over the fetch, friction on the water causes ripples which develop into waves, the larger the fetch the bigger the waves
fetch- distance of open water where wind blows
waves can be formed in tsunmais
as waves come closer to the shore the circular orbit is destorted to form an eliptical orbit, the top of wave moves faster and it breaks on the shore
beach-deposit of shingle at a coast often found at head of bay
crest-top of wave
swash- foward movement of waves up a beach
backwash- backward movement of water down a beach after wave has broken
There are two types of waves constructive- powerful with strong swash and weak back wash, this builds the beach up
AND destructive- formed by a storm that crashes down onto beach and has a powerful backwash, this decreases the beach

when a wave hits a beach or a cliff there are many types of errosion occuring:
HYDRAULIC- sheer power of the wave smashing into the cliff, trapped air is blasted into the holes and joints (cavitation) of rocks which causes rock to break off
CORRASION- fragments of rock being picked up in waves and thrown against cliff, the rocks act as errosive tools
ABRAISON- sandpaper effect of papering effect of pebbles against the cliff making the rocky surface smoother
ATTRITION- rock fragments carried by the sea knocking into one another making the pebbles smaller and softer

Longshore drift- the transport of sediment along a stretch of coastline caused by waves approaching the beach…

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