• Created by: Avalonr
  • Created on: 30-07-15 08:13

What do waves do

Waves shape the coast because of the action of the wave.

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What are the 3 functions of waves

  • Erode the rocks along the coast
  • Transport material along the coast
  • Deposit material along the coast
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How waves form and why they differ

Wind blows across the water causing friction between the water and as a result, waves form.

The wind's energy causes the water to start ocillating.

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How does a wave get size

The size of the wave depends on

  • Wind speed
  • Length of time that wind has been blowing 
  • The distance over which the wind has been blown and the wave has travelled
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Categories of waves

  • Constructive
    • Builds up the beach
  • Destructive
    • Erodes the beach
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What causes waves to break

  • Friction
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How does the shape of the wave change

  • Wave becomes more eliptical
  • Wave steepens
  • The crest curves and collapses
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Differences between constructive and deconstructiv


  • Weak backwash
  • Powerful swash
  • Wavelength is longer
  • Wave height is low
  • Generally in summer
  • 6-7 mins (length of wind)


  • Powerful backwash
  • Weak swash
  • Wavelength is shorter
  • Wave height is tall
  • Generally in winter
  • 12-15 mins (length of wind)
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Define erosion

 A process that breaks down rocks and carries away the breakdown of products

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Define deposition

The laying down of material

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