wave induced currents

notes on the two types of wave induced currents.

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Rip currents

  • flow away from shore at right angles
  • form when there are differences between wave height in nearshore zone
  • water levels in areas with higer waves are greater than areas of lower waves, resulting in the head of water thatinduces gravity flow of water towards area of low waves.
  • two opposing longshore currents meet close to shore and then flow seawards as a rip current.
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longshore currents/ longshore drift

  • flow parallel to shore and transport sediment along coast.
  • longshore drift= laterial movement of sediment along beaches.
  • swah comes onto beach parallel to the prevailing wind
  • backwash pulls sediment out to sea at right angles to the swash, creating a zig zag movement along the beach and coastline.
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