Coastal Waves

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Breaking of waves

First stage: waves begin out at sea with a circular orbit. 

Second stage: waves approach the shore, friction slows the base of the wave. The orbit circle misshapes. 

Third stage: the orbit becomes more egg shaped. 

Fifth stage: the egg shape breaks because the friction gets more intense. The top wave breaks as it hits the shore.

Final stage: wave hits the shore floor and creates friction. 

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Key wave words

Wave: a long body of warer which breaks on the shore of the beach. 

Coast: an area where land meets the sea. 

Fetch: the area of the sea which the wind blows over and it influences the wave size.

Swash: water going onto the shore. 

Backwash: water coming away from the shore. 

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Destructive waves

- Created in storm conditions

- The waves are large and destroy the coast. 

- High in structure and power.

- Short wave length

- Stronger backwash than swash

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Destructive waves

- Created in storm conditions

- The waves are large and destroy the coast. 

- High in structure and power.

- Short wave length

- Stronger backwash than swash

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Constructive wave

- Less powerful 

-Break on the shore

- Deposit sediment onto the shore

- Larger swash. 

- Add material to the shore

- Long wave length and low in height

- Help construct beaches

- Create flatter beaches

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Constructive wave

- Less powerful 

-Break on the shore

- Deposit sediment onto the shore

- Larger swash. 

- Add material to the shore

- Long wave length and low in height

- Help construct beaches

- Create flatter beaches

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