Waves- Phys Geog

Formation of Waves- Phys Geog

Wind blowing over the sea
Friction with surface of water causes ripples
Ripples develop into waves

Size and energy influenced by:

Length of time wind blowing for
Wind strength
How far it has travelled across the sea (fetch)
Start out at sea
Have circular orbit
Approaching shore-friction slows base of wave.
Orbit elliptical- till top of wave breaks over

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Constructive vs Destructive


Strong swash

Weak backwash

Build beach

Formed by distant storms


Stronger backwash

Weak swash

Destroys beach

Formed by local storms

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