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Coastal Processes

Coasts are shaped by the sea and the action of waves. The processes that take
place are erosion, transportation and deposition.

Waves


The power of waves is one of the most significant forces of coastal change.
Waves are created by wind blowing over the surface of the sea.…

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They are created in calm weather and are less powerful than destructive waves.
They break on the shore and deposit material, building up beaches.
They have a swash that is stronger than the backwash.
They have a long wavelength, and are low in height.


Coastal erosion

The sea shapes the…

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Saltation Load is bounced along the sea bed, e.g. small pieces of shingle or large sand grains.
Currents cannot keep the larger and heavier sediment afloat for long periods.

Traction Pebbles and larger sediments are rolled along the sea bed.


Deposition
When the sea loses energy, it drops the sand,…

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