Waves
- Created by: emily.tx
- Created on: 17-05-17 17:14
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- Waves
- Caused by wind dragging on the surface of the water and the transfer of energy from the wind blowing over the sea surface
- Fetch is the distance of water over which the wind has blown
- Wind- the movement of air always moving from high to low pressure
- Wave energy depends on the wind strength, length of time, fetch and distance of sea bed
- Wave frequency- How many waves per minute
- Wavelength- Crest to Crest or Trough to Trough
- Wave height- Distance between crest to trough
- Wave Types:
- Constructive:
- Lower wavelength
- Lower wave height
- Produces build up of beach material
- Strong swash, less powerful backwash
- Less frequent waves
- Called Spill Breakers
- 6-8 per minute
- Beach Gain
- Distant weather systems generate these in open ocean
- Gentle beach profile- overtime will build the beach up to make it steeper
- Destructive
- Strong backwash scours material from bed
- shorter wavelength
- Taller wave height
- Moves sediment away from beach
- More frequent waves
- Called Plunge Breakers
- Steeper beach profile- overtime will flatten beach
- Local storms are responsible for these
- Beach loss
- 10-14 per minute
- Constructive:
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