Waves
- Created by: aliceoliviaaa
- Created on: 08-05-17 09:21
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- Changing waves as they approach a coastline.
- Cornwall experiences the biggest waves due to prevailing winds, and a fetch of over 4000km.
- how waves are formed
- waves are formed due to friction between wind and water (energy transfer). strength of wind, duration of wind, water depth and wave fetch affects how large the wave is.
- how waves change as they approach a coastline
- as a wave nears a coast, the water shallows, meaning the motion of the wave experiences friction, slowing the wave down, and increasing its wave height to counteract this.
- Types of waves
- Constructive- low wave height (under 1m) and long wave length (up to 100m) SPILLING/ SURGING WAVES. gentle and flat with a strong swash but weak backwash. sediment is pushed up the beach, depositing sediment (i.e. berm)
- Destructive- wave height (over 1m) and short wavelength (around 20m). common during storms- PLUNGING WAVES. have a strong backwash which erodes beach material and carries it offshore (I.e. ridge or bar is formed offshore).
- The beach morphology changes due to different kinds of waves. the weather has a major effect, as it influences how strong the waves are.
- Beach profiles may also change due to- change in sediment supply from rivers (due to dams) -interference of supply along the coast (result of coastal management in one place) -of changes to climate. i.e. global warming could make the UK stormier, leading to more destructive waves.
- how beach profiles change.
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